My Minoru and First Giveaway

I finally did it. I've had the Minoru pattern since last Christmas (two of them, actually, but more about that later). I've coveted this pattern since I first laid eyes on it. I struggled with what fabric to choose (I have a history of choosing loud patterns and inappropriate colours that don't end up working with what I have in my closet.) 

After looking around at a lot of various resources, (I'd hope to find something really great at Ikea, but it was all just a bit too weird for a jacket I wanted to wear every day), I spotted this beautiful charcoal grey stretch cotton twill just to the right of the cutting table at Fabricland. I was there to get some baby shower gift supplies and didn't have time to get it, but made a mental note to come back. 

I did go back and get that fabric (obviously), and searched for about an hour to find just the right lining. Again, this is where I'd normally go all mental and pick something I'd regret later, but I managed to find a winner in, of all places, the home dec section. Its a taffeta-stiff blue/yellow cross weave polyester. I'm not really sure what it's intended purpose was, but I found it to be the perfect foil to the grey twill. 

Alterations: 

I added an inch to the width of the upper back with by doing this adjustment.

I've avoided raglan sleeves for a couple of years now because I couldn't get this adjustment right, but have finally figured it out. I did the same adjustment to the lining, but took an additional 1/4 inch from the back raglan seam since the lining fabric had absolutely no give whatsoever. I also added room in the sleeves of both the shell and the lining by using a 1/3 inch seam allowance. I cut a 6 on the top and waist grading to a 4 at the hip. I was very happy with the fit.

I added pockets using this tutorial and the pocket pattern piece from another coat I made a while back. This jacket definitely needs pockets (in my opinion), but the side seams seem too far back to feel like natural pocket openings. If I make this again, I'll use some variation of this pocket tutorial instead.

The PR review:

Pattern Description: 

The Minoru Jacket is a zip-front weekend jacket with a secret hood hidden inside the wide collar! If you prefer, skip the hood and let the dramatic collar be the focus. Flattering raglan sleeves are comfortable and easy-to-sew, and the elastic waistline creates a slim, curve-hugging silhouette.

Pattern Sizing:

0-16 I made a 6 at the shoulders, bust and waist and graded to a 2 at the hip. The sizing was right-on for me.

Did it look like the photo/drawing on the pattern envelope once you were done sewing with it?

Yes! I made the version without the hood.

Were the instructions easy to follow?

I'm used to following the directions of the big-4, or I should say that I follow the illustrations and only sometimes read the directions. There were a number of times when I assumed that I knew what to do next from the illustrations, but then had to read very carefully to fill in the blanks. I would have appreciated some notches on the illustrations so I could more easily tell at-a-glance what I was supposed to do. I followed Tasia's sewalong on her blog where she offered some professional construction tricks that weren't in the written instructions. I love that as an independent pattern designer she is able to offer sew alongs on her website. I'm a visual-learner, so that works best for me.

What did you particularly like or dislike about the pattern?

I love that it is easy to construct, doesn't have a lot of pieces, does have a lot of straight lines and, in my opinion, is super stylish. The big collar gives it a real "cool" factor. 

I did find that there was a large gap between the back of my neck and the large collar that let a lot of air in—I need to invest in a pashmina to keep the draft out. 

I think this jacket deserves pockets. I added mine via this tutorial. I would not recommend this, as the side seam is too far towards the back for the opening to feel like a natural place to put your hands, but there's another link on the Sewaholic website to a welt pocket tutorial that I could place anywhere I like.

The sleeves are a bit long, but I didn't find them cumbersome when wearing it and probably won't alter the length if I make this jacket again.

Fabric Used:

Grey stretch cotton twill for the outer, and a yellow/blue cross-weave polyester in a stiff taffeta-weight I found in the home decor area of fabricland.

Pattern alterations or any design changes you made:

I made a broad-upper back adjustment shown in my previous post.

I also cut my elastic quite a bit shorter than recommended. It really hugs my back, and I like how much more of a waist I get with this alteration.

Would you sew it again? Would you recommend it to others?

I only need one at the moment, but now that I've done the fitting, it would be really easy to make another one. I was so careful to pick a neutral fabric with this version that I could make one out of a louder fabric to indulge my inner "weird". I also considered making one out of sweatshirt material and/or colour blocking it. 

Conclusion: 

I love this jacket. I wish that fall here in Saskatchewan lasted longer so I could wear it more. I made this for a trip to NYC this past weekend. It was perfect. Thanks for the great pattern Tasia!

NOW FOR THE GIVE-AWAY!!

I asked for this pattern last Christmas, and since men can't seem to communicate effectively between each other, my husband and my dad both got me the same thing. So... I have two Minoru patterns and I really only need one. Since there are no returns on patterns, I would be happy to give one to one of you. It really is a great pattern, super simple and SO good-looking. 

In my last post, I tried to do an ugly muslin contest for my giveaway, but since I don't have too many followers—it was a bust, so all you have to do is comment below and on October 19 (next Friday), I'll draw someone at random as the winner.  

The Ugly Muslin Giveaway! And Minoru Progress

Have you ever had one of those projects that cause you to exclaim "Man! This is going to be so f#@$'n cool" every time you work on it? I finally found the fabrics for my Minoru and I couldn't be happier with them. The outer shell is a charcoal stretch cotton twill and the lining is a blue and yellow cross weave taffeta-like fabric I found in the home-dec department of Fabricland. I tried to restrain myself when picking out a lining so that I wouldn't be disappointed when it was finished and this choice has just enough kick. It's like lining for the commitment-phobe—sometimes it's yellow, sometimes it's blue, but mostly they blend into a greeny-grey. Perfect. 

This is my Minoru muslin: 

Ugly isn't it? I am trying to use up all of my remnants of fabric in appropriate muslins. I've got about 5 different fabrics going on here (almost the same weights) including some delightfully ugly green brocade originally bought for a halloween costume. Do you use actual muslin to test fit, or do you use fabric you have in your stash that you'd never use otherwise?

The fit, however, is better than I could hope for. I was cautious with this. I've never successfully done broad upper back adjustment to a raglan-sleeve pattern before. I was hoping that there would be enough ease without it, but was forced to finally figure it out. You would do this alteration if, when you lift your arms out in front of you (like Frankenstein), the fabric catches/bunches in front of your shoulders and pulls across the back of your shoulders by your armpits (your lats).

Here's what I did: 

1. Draw a line parallel to the centre back about 2 inches away. Draw two perpendicular lines from that line about 1.5" from the top of the pattern and another about 1.5" under the armpit.

2. Cut along the lines you just made and slide them out the desired amount. I usually need to add up to an inch. I added another 1/4" to the lining because my fabric had absolutely no give. 

3. Blend from the top of the pattern piece into your newly placed pattern piece and back out again from the armpit to the waist. 

Now... on to the giveaway! (It's my very first one!)

I asked for this pattern last Christmas, and since men can't seem to communicate effectively between each other, my husband and my dad both got me the same thing. So, I have two Minoru patterns and I really only need one and would be happy to give it to one of you. It really is a great pattern—super simple but SO good-looking. 

Here's the deal: Show me your ugliest muslin... I mean, really go for it. The idea here is to use up all of those left over pieces and ugly fabrics in your stash. The muslin can be for any pattern.

Make a comment below containing a link to your picture, be it on your blog or flicker or wherever else you post your pics on the web and some way of contacting you (email or link to your blog). I will choose the top three and you can vote. The winner gets my extra Sewaholic Minoru pattern and possibly a little something extra!

Contest closes October 10. Can't wait to see what hideous mockups you all come up with! 

Dinghy Dress and So (sew??) Much More

It's been a long while since I've posted. A LOT has happened.
• went on holiday, was sick on holiday, went hiking on holiday, got hailed on while hiking. boooo.
• finished bathing suit, wore bathing suit, bathing suit did not fall off. sucess.
• tried to finish ufo pants. ufo pants are now unwearable muslin. I will show you soon because everyone needs a good laugh.
• I did not win the trip to Italy this year that I won last year, but I DID WIN tickets to Saturday Night Live yesterday. 'gasp'.

...and I sewed some stuff, and I'm planning on sewing a lot more.

When I think about all of the posts I have to write I get WAY overwhelmed, but since I've got to start somewhere, I'll show you a dress I made a couple of months ago when it was still warm enough to wear it. I call it the Dinghy dress, on account of it's charming print.

The fabric is a very light cotton denim with a faint red print consisting of nautical themed objects, such as boats, sails and rigging and words:

I got it on one of my second hand store runs in the spring. I paired it with another find:

(I'm looking at the blue one on the left)

My version: 

It does look a little like a 1940's bomb factory worker uniform, so I have to be in a quirky mood to wear it.

I used red buttons and topstitched everything in red. 

The back collar facing is also red and I serged all of the seams in red as well.

The pattern review is here.

McCall's 6570, Knomes and Long Forgotten Bathing Suits

I've been sewing quite a bit and have fallen behind on posting. Since this is a long weekend, perhaps I'll get caught up. 

First things first: a pattern review.

McCalls 6570
It's listed as a "Carefree pattern", which may have been true if I didn't find myself making things more complicated than they needed to be by trying to put my own stamp on everything only to have it backfire.

Once again this is a vintage pattern I got for $.50 at the second hand store.

Pattern Description:
Misses' Two-Piece Dress: Buttoned top A, B gathered into neckband has tie belt; top A has elbow length kimono sleeves gathered into bands; top B has extended shoulder line. Four-gore skirt has side zipper.

Pattern Sizing: 8-10-12. I made the 12

Did it look like the photo/drawing on the pattern envelope once you were done sewing with it?
I changed it at the front closure, and it didn't look as narrow as the drawing, so not really.

Were the instructions easy to follow?
What I used of them, yes



What did you particularly like or dislike about the pattern?
I liked the lines of the pattern, and it was a simple design (not many pieces). The arm bands were the perfect size so they slid over my elbows and back without restricting my bicep.As with many pattern illustrations, the final garment did not look as streamlined as shown, but generally, everything on the pattern fit together and nothing was missed. I wouldn't discourage anyone from trying it.

Fabric Used:
Cotton crinkly plaid found at second hand store.

Pattern alterations or any design changes you made:
I changed the front button-down to a short button placket using a men's polo pattern I have to work out the changes. I tried lengthening it about 4 inches so I could wear it with leggings, but it ended up looking like a victorian night shirt, so I curved in the sides about an inch at the waist and cut the bottom off at the original cut line. I started to add a 2" bias band to the bottom, but it was not looking good so I just hemmed it normally. I also added fusible interfacing to the sleeve bands which the pattern didn't call for. I cut the bands on the bias, so I felt they needed some stability.

Would you sew it again? Would you recommend it to others?
I don't know if I'll sew it again (right away anyway). I'd like to try the short sleeved version in a smaller size in a finer fabric with the buttons all the way down. I'll wait until I spot something that inspires me, otherwise, it's on to my many other patterns.

Conclusion:
This is a well drafted pattern. As with all generously flowing designs, I think you have to have more curves to pull them off ie: larger waist to boob ratio. It would probably help to have a belt on it too. I'm curious to try it in a lighter fabric with more drape, but not now, I have other things to try!

Yikes! Horrendous panty-line.










































Trying some outdoor shots since it's so nice out today...

Also showing the world how awkwardly and unflatteringly I can stand for a photograph. Super job Erin!

I'm jealous of all the bloggers out there who take action shots, so I'm going to start taking my own ridiculous action shots.

Not the best light, but if you look carefully, you may notice my little friend standing behind me.

He looks sad



Probably because he has dirt in his mouth. Or maybe he's jealous that he doesn't have a large unflattering billowy shirt of his very own.
Really, he's sad because he's been looking at the grass jungle that is our front lawn for the last two months (our mower is broken).

Just so you don't all think less of us (specifically B), he borrowed my parent's mower a few hours later and the lawn is now cut.










I've also pledged to finish some UFOs, first up, my long forgotten bathing suit copy.
Here's where it was at yesterday morning:

It has been in this state for over a year. The blue is the old and the green is the new. I love this suit. It fit perfectly. The bum was becoming see-through though, so I decided to take the plunge and try to copy it. I did some work on it yesterday and almost finished the top part, but ran out of thread, so after today's work out, I'm running over to the fabric store and picking up more so I can finish it off this long weekend.

Pattern Review: Style 3867

Back in March, I picked up a number of presents for myself at the second hand store, one of which was this pattern: Style 3867 view 2 (the striped version on the left).

It's a super simple dress that I decided to make harder for myself by lining it and adding a zipper. I ended up taking the zipper out and cutting back the sleeves on the lining, but otherwise, it ended up working out very well.

This sack like style is not what I gravitate towards. Having a straighter body type with a smaller chest generally needs some sort of waist definition, hence the skinny tie belt.







Here it is from the front:

The fabric was found on the same trip to goodwill. $6 for 3 metres. It's a bit busy to see the lines of the dress, so I'll show you the lining:

 

The pattern doesn't call for a lining, but it's easier than wearing a slip so I found this yellow poly charmeuse. I cut the lining straight from pattern minus the facings, but it was showing unevenly at the sleeves and I was contemplating taking it out all together, but decided to just cut back the sleeves and give it a narrow hem at the sleeves and at the bottom.I think the yellow is a nice surprise if it happens to peek out.

As mentioned earlier, I did put a zipper in the back but realized when it was half in that I could pull it easily over my head and I would rather not have the stiffness of the zipper giving me weird pouches in the back when it was belted. Speaking of belts, I ran out of time to find a belt, so I made a skinny tie belt. The fabric is so drapey and slippery that I needed thread loops at the sides.

One last pick before the official review. My friend and I at the cast party for The Producers:














Official Pattern Review:

Pattern Description: 

All models have gathered skirt and top stitching. Model 1 and 2 have extended shoulder line. Model 2 has "V" shaped neckline

Pattern Sizing
Three size pattern (10,12, and 14) I made a 12

Did it look like the photo/drawing on the pattern envelope once you were done sewing with it? yes

Were the instructions easy to follow?

It's so basic that I didn't use them. I also added lining.

What did you particularly like or dislike about the pattern?

It's very easy to whip together

Fabric Used:

Some sort of polyester with the weight of crepe. The lining is a poly charmeuse. Both have a great drape.

Pattern alterations or any design changes you made:

Added lining and did a wide upper back adjustment of 3/8".

Would you sew it again? Would you recommend it to others?
I might sew it again. I might also use it without the skirt and just make it as a shirt. Maybe as the base of a colour blocking experiment.

Conclusion: 

This is a simple pattern. Although it isn't available anymore, I'm sure there are a few Burda sack dresses that are similar or that could be modified. It's really just a rectangle with a larger rectangle gathered and attached the bottom. 

Costumes!

In case anyone is interested, I'm posting my costumes from The Producers.  I wish I could show you all of them. For those of you who've seen the stage show or the movie. You can imagine the amount of work that goes into some of these.

I had 7 costumes and 2 wigs. Most cast members had a list that was fairly similar. 

First nighter: 

As Ulla: 

Funny story: In not one, but two performances, my microphone pack (about the size of your palm) which was clipped onto my tights, slipped off and slid down my back, settling in the bum area of my leotard for almost the entire scene and my one solo song, giving new meaning to "If You Got It, Flaunt It". Thank goodness for fringe.

Your basic infinity dress with extra circle added in the skirt and a slit up to my waist with matching dance-panties:

This costume was completely hand made (not by me thank goodness). It includes a bodysuit, wings, a cape/tail, hip belt and eagle hat. There was a lot of specially engineered elements in this one. 

This one was worn for no more than 1or 2 minutes on stage. It is also completely hand made and was repurposed from Cinderella's ball gown from a couple of years ago. I wore that dress in a preview but was not cast as Cinderella, so there's actually two of the bodices in existence, one that fits me without the super bra, and one that fit the girl who played Cinderella and incidentally me with the super bra. The skirt/belt were remade from the ball gown to fit the established "Ulla" silhouette of narrow skirt with front drape.

The rio costume I made is shown here. 

My final and favourite costume: 

Why favourite? Sequins of course. Seriously, who couldn't love black sequined booty shorts topped with a semi-transparent striped sequined top? No sarcasm here. If I could have sequins on all of my clothes, I would be a happy lady. 

I encourage any of you to sew for your local community theatre group. They need you, and it doesn't have to be a huge commitment. Sometimes, all you have to do is sew some easy aprons or a bunch of buttons. The more volunteers they have, the easier it is for everyone, and you usually get a free ticket to the show where you can sit back and say, " I made that!"

Stash Bustin' Gift Bags

In my experience with community theatre, it is tradition for cast members give each other little gifts as mementoes either on opening night or closing night (or sometimes any night of the run). Usually, it's little cards or candies or small trinkets. This year, there were four cast members in particular that I wanted to thank for lending me different items that helped me out a great deal. I figured that even if they didn't like them, they're only grocery bags–they can stash them in their car just in case their needed.

Since I had taken the week of the run off work to preserve my sanity and sleep habits, I had some time to whip up some personal thank-you's in the form of reusable grocery bags (they came in handy after the last show when everyone has a bunch of accumulated crap in the dressing room to bring home with them. 

I copied the pattern off a bag that I got as a promo item. It features a clever little design feature in the form of a corner drawstring pocket that the entire bag can be stuffed into and then cinched up (kind-of looks like a little strawberry to me). 

All fabric I had in my stash, I just had to purchase a couple of packages of seam binding for two of the bags as well as elastic and toggles for the drawstrings. 

The orange and purple snakeskin print was my first try and test bag–which I kept–mostly because of the slightly shoddy binding application, and the fact that it's my favourite fabric in my stash. I made a dress out of it a couple of years ago that wasn't completely successful so I'm happy to have it appear in my every day life now. 

I learned from my mock up that the main bag material must be light-weight. the corner piece can be a heavier fabric, and there's more than one way to apply the binding. In the end, by being careful, I could sew it on in one pass as opposed to sewing it on once, folding it and then stitching in the ditch. It saved a LOT of time.

To be honest, these bags didn't really put a huge dent in my stash, but it was fun to pair up fabrics and colours. 

It's a pretty straightforward pattern that I'm sure most could figure out, but if anyone is interested, I could try to figure out how to post it. Or at the very least write up a tutorial.