First things first

I give you the Christmas miracle plaid shirt: 

Made with the flannel I got when in San Francisco this summer, it is the most-liked item I've made all year. The fabric is so frickin' awesome. It feels like I'm wearing a blanket all day. 

I used my TNT shirt pattern and remembered too late (already cut the fabric)that the last one I made was still a smidge tight across the back when I have my arms forward so I just made the seam allowance in that area a little smaller and it worked out great, ie: full range of motion for my arms. 

There is a slight bit of pooling at my lower back, but when I stand to the side I don't see it so I'll chalk it up to ease. 

Please disregard the McDonald's bag from 1:30 this morning (we're classy like that). We were starving after our New Year's party, and I swear a quarter-pounder never tasted so frickin' amazing. My dress was a big hit, and was as comfortable as a sheath dress can be (I guess) in that it didn't gape anywhere and I had enough room to move. It was a little tight at the hips when I sat, though I don't think there was any danger of any seams popping. My next post will be all about that dress. I forgot my camera so I'm going to have to make a point of taking pictures in the next day or so. 

Back to the shirt—next time I need to make another revision: the neckline is too big. It's not really a problem since I never wear my shirts done up all the way, but I'd still like to make the revision for any future makes. 

And of course I had to include this:

Happy New Year!

Baby it's Cold Outside

Seriously, so fracking cold that I walk around hunched and tense like I'm expecting to get punched in the face – which is what breathing felt like yesterday when I walked to the bus stop for the last time this year. As I sit here it's -29°C (-37°C with the wind chill) – but still we will don our touques and scarves and highly unattractive ski mitts, wearing three jackets and probably tights under my jeans (which I hate like nothing else) to get the oversized can of chick peas that I plan on giving my good friend Gavin at his birthday party tonight. We have a long standing tradition of giving each other ridiculous birthday gifts like boxes of cheerios or a regifted 3-D puzzle. Usually I grab something out of my pantry, but I spotted the giant can of hummus-makings in the window the Swadesh super market bathed in a sunbeam – like angels were guiding me to the perfect gag-gift (Gavin is famous for his hummus). He'll think it's funny.

I've been concentrating very intently on my new year's dress (post to come–here's a sneak peek).

It has been quite a journey into over-fitting, franken-patterning, and then over-fitting correction (as much as I could anyway). I'm at the hemming stage and late last night, I decided to reward myself by cutting into the thick flannel plaid I bought in SanFran this summer. That's right, folks! I'm going to attempt a Christmas miracle by trying to finish sewing an entire shirt by Monday while also fitting in Christmas shopping and cleaning the house before we head out of town on Tuesday. It's just so cold that I wanted a snuggly shirt to wear while laying around the house Christmas-style reading and knitting a new toque and scarf (post to come).

I used my tnt shirt pattern and managed to rotate out the back neck dart using this tutorial from inhousepatterns.com to move that pesky shoulder dart so I wouldn't have to deal with it in my plaid.

The button placket, pockets/flaps, back yoke, and cuffs on the bias. I was going to do the collar or collar stand too, but decided it didn't need to be for some reason. I have a little extra fabric in case I change my mind. 

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Update: I wrote this post yesterday and then didn't finish or post it. I'm happy to say that I just may finish this thing by tomorrow. I just have the sleeves and collar (already constructed) attachment left. Merry Christmas everyone!

I am the Queen of Productive Procrastination

Instead of getting right to my holiday dress sewing I've been procrastinating. This doesn't mean that I haven't been doing anything. On the contrary. I've made myself a busy little bee so I can avoid any fit frustrations that will inevitably come with sewing for myself.

I made another version of NL6095, originally blogged about here, but this time it was a top for myself. There were some fit issues (probably why I'm so reluctant to start the new dress), and I'll probably try it again one size larger and then blog about it.

I made myself another pair of work out shorts. I used this method to copy my all time favourite shorts from Joe Clothing using press and seal wrap. I've used this method a few times to copy clothes of B's to remake so I know they will fit him.

The originals

My new pairs(s)

The pink/grey pair is what I made most recently out of a small amount of ponte knit. The blue pair is the pair I made this past summer out of remnants from my jeggings and my mom's dress. They are the most comfortable work out shorts I own. 

Lastly, I got ahead on my Christmas sewing by using this tutorial from Ikatbag and made three lunch bags for my two nieces and one nephew. They are all now school-aged and also pretty outdoorsy kids so  the "dry sac" idea seemed like a good match. We also won't be in the same city as the kids this year for the holidays, so their gifts needed to be easily packable in their uncle's suitcase so he can deliver them when he gets back to Calgary.

If you are attempting this project for yourself, I might suggest that you make the bag about an inch taller than you first think it should be. I'd also suggest that you use a stiff fabric. I used quilting cotton for the outside layer just because you get the best choice of prints, upholstery fabric samples for the fruit appliques, and black rip stop nylon for the inside. I wanted it to be wipeable, but it didn't need to be waterproof. All fabrics were prewashed and dried in the dryer so they can be laundered the same way. 

The only thing left to do is get to pattern tracing for my own projects. I've decided that I'm going to make both Simplicity 1654 for New Year's and the peplum top for my work Christmas party. It's liable to be a zillion degrees below zero, so I'll just stick to pants for that one. 

The Next Dress

I don't make a lot of dresses, mostly because it's rare to have an occasion to wear them and I don't find them terribly comfortable. Give me jeans and a sweater ANY day.

It just so happens that there's a new occasion which makes for the perfect excuse to make a new dress. I could wear the last dress I made:  Vogue 12069, made a year and a half ago, but the last time I wore it (about two months ago) I realized I have been eating too many cinnamon buns so it was not as comfortable as it should have been. I've put myself on a much better eating plan, but I'm dying to try two new (to me) patterns.

The community theatre group that B and I are involved in is having their 50th Anniversary Gala this new year's eve. We've both been asked to sing as part of the entertainment, ergo, new dress. These are my two choices:

Not one person has made the Cynthia Rowley and been moved to share it on the web. I don't feel great about those odds, but I think maybe no one has attempted it because of all the seams. Looking more closely, I'm really just seeing a princess line dress with an attached skirt. It will definitely require a muslin (or three probably) and I might change the construction order so the fitting process is a little more straightforward. 

I fell in love with the blue version with the decorative top stitching, but it looks so sporty (probably why I was drawn to it) that I'm not sure it's right for a gala. What about sleeves? I like the sleeveless, but it's notoriously colder than a witch's tit here on new years and I'll take all the coverage I can get. Maybe I should just wear my cat costume... it's warm. 

Option two is this Lisette (Simplicity) 1666. I've seen this one made up a couple of times and the resulting top makes me hopeful. It has all the features I like: cut-on cap sleeve, princess seams for easier fitting (including my usual broad back adjustment), and the peplum is different too – not so sticky-outy. My friend and I were discussing peplums the other day and while we both like the shape they give, we find them uncomfortable in how they cut into your high waist and then there's a strip of skin hanging out in between that and where your pants/skirt start – especially if you like low rise bottoms.  I'm hoping by making the skirt as well–that sits on my actual waist – the issue will be resolved.

As for fabric, I have no idea. The pieces I had in mind that are in my stash seem not fancy enough once I took the whole "gala" thing into consideration. If I can get either of these to fit properly in the muslin stage, I'm not opposed to getting some really special fabric...if I can find it. Any suggestions?  

In any case, I should really get my act together because the holidays are going to come faster than I think. 

How could I ever forget you Halloween?

We moved into our house three years ago (is that right??–maybe a little longer) and met our delightful neighbour cats Junior and Diesel. I was always a "dog person", but after meeting Junior I was a convert to the cat side. In the spring/summer/winter, they are part-time outdoor cats and never fail to visit us for some belly-rubs.

This year, the cats became our inspiration for a ridiculous couples halloween costume (we've done this before).

I thought I had an adult cat costume in my stash, but it turns out the at the sizing was not going to be big enough for B, I could have graded it, but ugh! Too much work. But, there just happened to be a pattern sale on at Fabricland so...

I used Simplicity 2853

I cut a small for me and a medium for B and added about an inch to his sleeve and leg length which was perfect. I have to say that I was pretty sick of sewing these by the end of it. Way more pieces than I usually deal with for a project. I learned this the last time I sewed a jumpsuit costume for Liam but the passage of time makes one forget. You can see my review of this pattern here.

(I'm the one on the right)

Diesel is a bit more elusive.

Didn't spot him? I'll zoom in: 

Sometimes he sits on our step.

Our inspiration:

Too much cat candy for Diesel?

I'm the only one who dresses up at work — my coworkers have come to expect it.

 How can I disappoint them?

I made both costumes out of fleece. I have never been so comfortable.

Or stylish? 

The last time I wore a cat costume was 1979. 

Halloween has always been a big deal for us.

Happy belated halloween!!

New Look 6095

I was waiting to review this until after I had used this pattern to make myself a quick top, but we are having company next weekend, and the massive clean up of our basement/lady cave/construction site became the priority.  So no sewing until after next weekend. Instead I will placate my yearnings by taking the opportunity to finish up this project: 

This is a souvenier tote I picked up at Britex when I was in SanFran this summer. I really wanted the coloured tote but I was on a budget and had an idea for their 60th anniversary tote. There will still be some sewing to do once the embroidery is done in the form of an added lining, but that will have to wait.

Not being able to sew frees me up to put together a long overdue pattern review.

New Look 6095

My sister asked me to make this for her for a school band trip to NYC back in April. We picked a beautiful knit and I made it up without any changes except for omitting the zipper. I never got pics of it, but then my mom asked me to make the same dress for her for the summer and for their upcoming trip to Hawaii. I've only sewed for my mom once with only so-so results. My sister and husband are nearly right-out-the-envelope-people so they are easy to fit, but mom is petite and mature which equals pattern changes I've never attempted before. This pattern is so simple that I thought I'd be able to handle it. 

Using Fit for Real People, I made a petite adjustment which simply consisted of tucking up the length by about an inch and a half (if memory serves). I measured her from the shoulder to her waist and compared that measurement to the flat pattern. I made a quick muslin in some left over knit scraps of the top 3/4 of the dress to check fit which was spot on. Trust the math people. 

I was worried about the dart placement since on my sister's dress is was a little low. Not enough for her to notice, but I made a mental not to change it if I ever made it for myself. On my mom, the placement was perfect.

For both dresses I made view A (the striped version) but omitted the provided neck facing, choosing instead to do a neck band on Jana's version (like a t-shirt), and bound my mom's with some scrap white sport mesh, 

Because this pattern is drafted for a woven and I used a knit, I omitted the zipper and took in quite a bit on the side seams. The fabric we chose for Mom's was actually listed as a swim knit, but I would describe it as a thick, spongy double knit with a good amount of stretch and excellent recovery.

After sewing the seams twice using a ridiculous amount of pins, we were happy to get great matching of the stripes. 

The back view looks as though she may have needed a swayback adjustment, but it might just be the angle that she's standing at. 

I also need to add that I love love love the draft of this sleeve. The neckline is also very flattering. Since I'm basically a carbon copy of my mother, I'm assuming it will be just as flattering on myself. I'm anxious to see how it sews up in a woven, after which, I'll do a proper review on PR. 

Too Cool for School

B needed clothes to teach in, and all I needed was a kick-in-the-ass – provided by the PR mini wardrobe contest to get it together in only a month. I also stash-busted in the process.

Here are his new 4 outfits: 

After looking over my shoulder as I'm writing this post, B was heard to exclaim, "You sure know how to sew for my ass, Erin!"

-You are welcome dear. 

Pants #1: 

I've made the pants before (not blogged) many years ago, so I was at least familiar with the pattern before I started. 

He takes a 36 with no adjustment other than adding an inch to the length at the bottom.

For the first pair, I chose a slate-blue cotton twill. When I was about half way done he checked on my progress and asked, "Are those going to be clown pants?". Um... no. 

He was worried about the colour being too bright, but as you can see they read as neutral. 

I made the prescribed double welt pockets on the back but moved the button up to the tip of the dart. They were just barely long enough, meaning that I had to use seam binding to eek out all the length I could. 

I used some fabric left over from a bridesmaid dress and some quilting cotton for the pocket linings. The buttons were all that's left of some trouser jeans of mine that bit the dust a couple of years ago that had a little personality and matched perfectly. I think the overall cost of these without labour was about $6-$8. Definitely under $10.

Pants #2: 

Pair 2 is based on the same pattern but I borrowed Burda 8451 for the back pockets and the general shape of the front pockets.

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I also did fake flat felled side seams and larger/wider belt loops. The fabric (100% mixed fibres) gave an impression of dark denim thus the denim styling. I found it at Fabricland on sale for probably $6/m.

I should mention that the instructions for the zip fly on this pattern are great. I had no problems following them and I got a great result both times. There's a lot of hand basting involved, but I'll take that over tedious fitting any day. 

Shirt #1: 

A couple of years ago, I found a vintage shirt for B at the second hand store. It fit him so well that I finally got around to copying it last Christmas. He has two other shirts in his closet from that copy and his only request for changes was that the next one needed to be made out of a less wrinkle-prone fabric. 

Wish granted courtesy of a thrift store sheet. 

All seams are topstitched and I opted for a single welt pocket of my own engineering. 

You may notice that it buttons up the wrong way. I had a brain fart and even though we had just had a discussion about it, I ended up making button holes on the wrong side. "Who cares!!" I say. I added a strip of white bias binding to the inside of the front placket to distract from my not-so-perfect pattern matching which I blame on the mis-printed sheet. White cotton lines the inside collar stand under collar and pocket welt. 

Shirt #2: 

This was a new one for me and it took the most time/effort/swearing. I made a muslin and ended up adding maybe 2" to the upper back at the armpits (incidentally B and I have the same regular pattern adjustment). I also took the shoulders up about 3/8" adding that amount to the sleeve cap height. 

I had a pretty negative feeling about this shirt as I was sewing it. I chose (like an idiot) to topstitch every seam in two different colours – never do this unless you have three machines – seriously you will want to kill yourself... or someone else. When it was finished and B finally tried it on I was pleasantly surprised. Because the front of the shirt is very plain, I added two pockets with western-style flaps (that I really should have interfaced). I'm very happy with the topstitching on those though.

I really liked the construction of this shirt. Without all of the extra topstitching, this should have gone together incredibly easily. No fiddly interfacing on the front placket and the sleeves are set in the flat. I found the collar a little small for my taste (esthetically only—the pattern pieces fit together well), but it looks just fine on B so maybe I've been looking at too many vintage 70s patterns!

Again the fabric is a cotton I found at a thrift store for $6 or less, and I have some left over. Unfortunately, this will not fall into the "no-iron" category, but it fits and for me, that's what really matters. 

In the end, I think these 4 pieces probably cost around $20. Everything minus the one pant's fabric came from my stash and most was bought second-hand. B commented that with labour the cost comes in closer to $800. Yay sewing!

So folks, if you are so inclined, please head over to the Pattern Review Mini-Wardrobe Contest and vote for me and B's new teaching wardrobe.