Pattern Review: Style 3867

Back in March, I picked up a number of presents for myself at the second hand store, one of which was this pattern: Style 3867 view 2 (the striped version on the left).

It's a super simple dress that I decided to make harder for myself by lining it and adding a zipper. I ended up taking the zipper out and cutting back the sleeves on the lining, but otherwise, it ended up working out very well.

This sack like style is not what I gravitate towards. Having a straighter body type with a smaller chest generally needs some sort of waist definition, hence the skinny tie belt.







Here it is from the front:

The fabric was found on the same trip to goodwill. $6 for 3 metres. It's a bit busy to see the lines of the dress, so I'll show you the lining:

 

The pattern doesn't call for a lining, but it's easier than wearing a slip so I found this yellow poly charmeuse. I cut the lining straight from pattern minus the facings, but it was showing unevenly at the sleeves and I was contemplating taking it out all together, but decided to just cut back the sleeves and give it a narrow hem at the sleeves and at the bottom.I think the yellow is a nice surprise if it happens to peek out.

As mentioned earlier, I did put a zipper in the back but realized when it was half in that I could pull it easily over my head and I would rather not have the stiffness of the zipper giving me weird pouches in the back when it was belted. Speaking of belts, I ran out of time to find a belt, so I made a skinny tie belt. The fabric is so drapey and slippery that I needed thread loops at the sides.

One last pick before the official review. My friend and I at the cast party for The Producers:














Official Pattern Review:

Pattern Description: 

All models have gathered skirt and top stitching. Model 1 and 2 have extended shoulder line. Model 2 has "V" shaped neckline

Pattern Sizing
Three size pattern (10,12, and 14) I made a 12

Did it look like the photo/drawing on the pattern envelope once you were done sewing with it? yes

Were the instructions easy to follow?

It's so basic that I didn't use them. I also added lining.

What did you particularly like or dislike about the pattern?

It's very easy to whip together

Fabric Used:

Some sort of polyester with the weight of crepe. The lining is a poly charmeuse. Both have a great drape.

Pattern alterations or any design changes you made:

Added lining and did a wide upper back adjustment of 3/8".

Would you sew it again? Would you recommend it to others?
I might sew it again. I might also use it without the skirt and just make it as a shirt. Maybe as the base of a colour blocking experiment.

Conclusion: 

This is a simple pattern. Although it isn't available anymore, I'm sure there are a few Burda sack dresses that are similar or that could be modified. It's really just a rectangle with a larger rectangle gathered and attached the bottom. 

Costumes!

In case anyone is interested, I'm posting my costumes from The Producers.  I wish I could show you all of them. For those of you who've seen the stage show or the movie. You can imagine the amount of work that goes into some of these.

I had 7 costumes and 2 wigs. Most cast members had a list that was fairly similar. 

First nighter: 

As Ulla: 

Funny story: In not one, but two performances, my microphone pack (about the size of your palm) which was clipped onto my tights, slipped off and slid down my back, settling in the bum area of my leotard for almost the entire scene and my one solo song, giving new meaning to "If You Got It, Flaunt It". Thank goodness for fringe.

Your basic infinity dress with extra circle added in the skirt and a slit up to my waist with matching dance-panties:

This costume was completely hand made (not by me thank goodness). It includes a bodysuit, wings, a cape/tail, hip belt and eagle hat. There was a lot of specially engineered elements in this one. 

This one was worn for no more than 1or 2 minutes on stage. It is also completely hand made and was repurposed from Cinderella's ball gown from a couple of years ago. I wore that dress in a preview but was not cast as Cinderella, so there's actually two of the bodices in existence, one that fits me without the super bra, and one that fit the girl who played Cinderella and incidentally me with the super bra. The skirt/belt were remade from the ball gown to fit the established "Ulla" silhouette of narrow skirt with front drape.

The rio costume I made is shown here. 

My final and favourite costume: 

Why favourite? Sequins of course. Seriously, who couldn't love black sequined booty shorts topped with a semi-transparent striped sequined top? No sarcasm here. If I could have sequins on all of my clothes, I would be a happy lady. 

I encourage any of you to sew for your local community theatre group. They need you, and it doesn't have to be a huge commitment. Sometimes, all you have to do is sew some easy aprons or a bunch of buttons. The more volunteers they have, the easier it is for everyone, and you usually get a free ticket to the show where you can sit back and say, " I made that!"

Stash Bustin' Gift Bags

In my experience with community theatre, it is tradition for cast members give each other little gifts as mementoes either on opening night or closing night (or sometimes any night of the run). Usually, it's little cards or candies or small trinkets. This year, there were four cast members in particular that I wanted to thank for lending me different items that helped me out a great deal. I figured that even if they didn't like them, they're only grocery bags–they can stash them in their car just in case their needed.

Since I had taken the week of the run off work to preserve my sanity and sleep habits, I had some time to whip up some personal thank-you's in the form of reusable grocery bags (they came in handy after the last show when everyone has a bunch of accumulated crap in the dressing room to bring home with them. 

I copied the pattern off a bag that I got as a promo item. It features a clever little design feature in the form of a corner drawstring pocket that the entire bag can be stuffed into and then cinched up (kind-of looks like a little strawberry to me). 

All fabric I had in my stash, I just had to purchase a couple of packages of seam binding for two of the bags as well as elastic and toggles for the drawstrings. 

The orange and purple snakeskin print was my first try and test bag–which I kept–mostly because of the slightly shoddy binding application, and the fact that it's my favourite fabric in my stash. I made a dress out of it a couple of years ago that wasn't completely successful so I'm happy to have it appear in my every day life now. 

I learned from my mock up that the main bag material must be light-weight. the corner piece can be a heavier fabric, and there's more than one way to apply the binding. In the end, by being careful, I could sew it on in one pass as opposed to sewing it on once, folding it and then stitching in the ditch. It saved a LOT of time.

To be honest, these bags didn't really put a huge dent in my stash, but it was fun to pair up fabrics and colours. 

It's a pretty straightforward pattern that I'm sure most could figure out, but if anyone is interested, I could try to figure out how to post it. Or at the very least write up a tutorial. 

Dear sewing, I miss you.

We had a ridiculously horrid rehearsal last night. To be honest, I'm finding it hard to be excited about our first full dress rehearsal tonight.

I didn't have my wig on yesterday and I was already sweating buckets. One girl in the chorus was drunk and fell down the last couple of stairs in her 4" platform heels (don't worry, I think being drunk kept her relaxed so she wasn't hurt). I thought I had a quick change and raced to get into what I thought was my next costume holding up the scene by 4 minutes when really, all I had to do was put a coat on over what I was already wearing. These were the most memorable mishaps of the evening, but believe me when I say that there were many many many more. Many.

I know I'm supposed to be having fun, and I'm sure I will. I'm hoping that tonight's rehearsal will surprise me and things will start falling into place a little more.

As for sewing. I took the week of the run off work, so I will have all of my days free to finish up some UFO's, and hopefully start something new. In the past, I've made a dress for the cast party, but I think this year, I might get another wear out of the red vogue I've already worn to a couple of weddings. It's a great dress, and I won't get a lot of opportunities to wear it again this summer.

UFO's I need to get finished:
1. Navy and white 80's dress. I'm at the stage where I'm attaching the lining to the zipper and hemming it, but after a try-on, even though it's a woven, I don't need the zip, and the lining shows at the sleeves, so I'm going to cut it out, go with facings and wear a slip. I'm also going to make a little tie belt for it, and hopefully find a bright red, orange or yellow skinny belt to wear with it in the future.

2. Bikini remake: I'm copying my favourite bathing suit. I took it apart and have had it underway for a long time. I got scared I was going to fail after installing some elastic for the fourth time and was easily lured away by other projects. I'm going to adopt a new fearless attitude and try to get more of it done. There's a lot of new skills to learn on this one.

3. I started a pair of pants. After the first try-on of said pants, there were issues with fitting in the waist. I think I can make them work. We'll see if I have the patience.


New projects:

1. Vintage shirtdress. I have the pattern. I have the fabric. I'd love to have the time to do a post about them. Stay tuned.

2. Summer tops.

3. Summer shorts

Hopefully in the next week, I can report on some progress with my ufo's.

What I've been up to: (some sewing required)

I've been busy. Really busy. Like... rehearsals every day busy (thus no posts or sewing really)
My husband and I both got leads in our community musical theatre group's production of The Producers. He's Franz (the Will Farrell character in the movie), and I'm Ulla. I usually sew for the shows we are in, and because of the demands on my time, my costume mistress usually doesn't give me too much to do.

This year, I was assigned this dress:

I've made it before for another review show a couple of years ago so I'm familiar with the pattern. I wish I could tell you what it was, but I gave it back to her a while back and it's out of print anyway. I had to make no less than three muslins of the bodice (I'm wearing one of those bras that bumps you up at least two sizes) and I'm not used to sewing for that much boobage.

It's hard to see because of the patterned fabric, but this dress features a front drape that's faced and a couple of pleated scarf-like pieces that are sewn into the bodice side seams that you can wrap around yourself in a number of different ways.

Even after three muslins, I had to take it in on the bodice sides from 1/2" each side at the armpits to 1/4" at the waist and I eased the difference into the waist seam at the sides. The skirt portion is a size 10 graded to a 12 at the waist. Since the bottom half fit so well, I used this pattern to make a little skirt (without the drape) that may make an appearance in future postings.

Looking at this picture as I am writing this, I feel like something should be said about that wig: It's hot.

I have several other costumes that I will try to get pics of to show you, only because they are hilarious. If you are familiar with The Producers, you might know what I am talking about. I've got a few little fixes to do on a couple of other costumes (including some fringe on my white leotard that looks as though it was applied while thoroughly hammered). 

I also got eyelash extensions yesterday. Our makeup lady is training in their application so I got a free set. They stay on for 3-4 weeks, and I suck at putting on false eyelashes so it will save me a lot of time. For those of you who are interested, application costs somewhere in the range of $120-150, and you can't get them wet for 2 days after you get them.

The show runs for 10 days, and we have just under two weeks of rehearsals left. Every day that thought becomes less terrifying as we pull it all together.

Breaking a leg!!

Vogue 1209 Review...finally.

 Well, I'm finally getting around to this review. I've been absolutely swamped with rehearsals and let's be honest, catching up on the tv I missed when I was at rehearsals (it's how I decompress). I've also been sewing one of my costumes and working.

I had a chance to wear this dress again to the wedding of some great friends about a month and a half ago and took the time to get some pictures.

Here is my PR review:

Pattern Description:

MISSES' DRESS: Close-fitting, above mid-knee length, lined dress has front scoop and low back neckline, cap sleeves, front and back gathers underneath tabs, lower front detail seam, back peplum and side invisible zipper.

Pattern Sizing: 

Comes in sizes 4-18. My measurements are quite a bit off from the pattern envelope, but I held my breath and cut out a 10 which is my usual size in the top and sometimes bottom. It turns out Vogue lies, or the dress is very forgiving because I only had to make a few adjustments!! I sewed a size 10 with  minimal adjustments.

Did it look like the photo/drawing on the pattern envelope once you were done sewing with it?yes

Were the instructions easy to follow?

yes

What did you particularly like or dislike about the pattern?
I like everything about it.

Fabric Used:

A tomato-red poly of some kind with an interesting faint stripe in the weave and a nice drape. I tried to find something that was crepe-esque.The lining was another poly of some kind with a slightly lighter weight. 

Pattern alterations or any design changes you made:

1. I took in the front 5/8" from either side which will keep it on my shoulders. I think is essentially a small bust adjustment.

2. I'm adding to the length about 2.5" plus hem allowance.

3. I added to the peplum length about 1 1/2". I was worried about the peplum not being in proportion with the added length, but it turned out great.

4. I let out the side seams about a 1/4 " on both sides at the waist tapering to nothing at the underarm and the hip. It was a tad snug, and I I wanted to be able to eat in it.

Would you sew it again? 

Would you recommend it to others?

It's pretty distinct. Never say never. If I found a beautiful patterned fabric, I might make it again. Maybe convert it to a top?? Who am I kidding? I have about a 1000 other projects that are in the cue before I ever get back to this one. 

Conclusion: 

I LOVE this dress. I was so pleased that it came together so well. There were a couple of tricky sewing moments attaching the lining to the facing on a curve, but beyond that, it was smooth sailing. The narrow hems are a little finicky and time-consuming, but they look so nice. I screwed up one in one place where I forgot to add to the length on the side pieces and had to pice on an extension, but with all of the other seaming on this dress, it's not a noticeable mistake. Also, this was another reason to practice inserting an invisible zip. 

One thing, you do have to wear bra converter straps to lower the back of your bra. 

Here are more pics: 

(yes, those stockings B and I made each other still haven't been taken down...

back 

bra converter

Vintage Pattern Contest Entry: McCall's 4236

This is my very first contest entry with patternreview.com (PR). This one had my name written all over it, and the timing finally worked out. Even though I've just started rehearsals and things have picked up at work, and I'm sewing a dress for the show, I managed to fit in a little top made from one of my recent vintage pattern purchases.

McCall's 4236

Pattern Description: 

From1974. Pullover dress or top has scoop neck and gathered sleeve cap. Dress B with optional belt, or top C has collar included in front neck and shoulder seams. I made the top with collar, view C.

Pattern Sizing:

My pattern came as a size 10 and I graded up to a 12 using a diagram in "Fit for Real People"

Did it look like the photo/drawing on the pattern envelope once you were done sewing with it?

yes. 

Were the instructions easy to follow?

Yes. It's a basic top with a couple of order-of-assembly differences I had to pay attention to because of the drape.

What did you particularly like or dislike about the pattern?

I love how vintage patterns have the seam allowances marked. It makes it much easier to fit. I also really liked the rows of gathering stitches. They were a nice design detail. The gathered sleeve isn't something I normally go for, but they are cute and not too exaggerated for it being a 70's pattern.

Fabric Used:A teal green cotton jersey I found at the second hand store. There was so much of it, I was able to make a muslin out of it as well. 

Pattern alterations or any design changes you made: 

I made my usual broad upper back alteration. In my test version, I tried to use binding instead of the facing, but opted for the facing because in the end,  it was going to be tacked down in 4 places so it doesn't flip around at all. Plus, my binding application skills really need some work. 

Would you sew it again? Would you recommend it to others?

I don't think I'd sew this version again, but I can see using the base of this pattern to work off of. I'd like to try a peter pan collar with a cap sleeve. I'd also like to try the basic shape and work applying binding to the neck hole that doesn't look like crap. The dress version (in a shorter length) might come in handy too some day.

Conclusion: 

I like this one. It is a bit cumbersome when playing with my infant nephew—the drape in the front kept swinging around and getting in the way, but it really is perfect for work—especially under a blazer. Even in a solid colour it has some interest.

On fake me:

On real me:

Close up of the gathering stitches: