1. Shortened the sleeves 4 inches
2. Changed the shape of the neckline and sleeve facings
3. Used a 9 inch exposed zip.
4. Added piping to the neckline and sleeve hems
1. my usual 1/2" broad upper back (pivot method used here from the Slapdash Sewist)
2. grade out 1/4" at the hips
My measurements matched best with a 12 at the bust, and 14 at the waist and hip, but I cut a straight 12, A-cup.
The piping. Oh the piping. I had some faux brown leather in my stash that I thought worked really well with the feel/colour scheme of my fabric and decided to make my own piping. I bought what I thought was a light-weight cord, but because my fabric was quite light, it was like I had a wire insert in my neckline. I took out the cord which fixed the problem. On the sleeves I should have sewed my piped facings in the round, but I was being lazy and applied them to my sleeves before sewing the sleeves in flat and then sewing up the sides. This left me with a raw edge on the inside of my cuffs instead of a nicely faced hem, but I serged it and am not loosing sleep over it.
I will not be modifying the neckline again this much as doesn't always sit quite right, and the front opening "flaps" don't always lie flat. The fabric is quite light and the top is quite slouchy so it's forgivable.
The shape of the bodice is really flattering. It's roomy but NOT boxy which is something I'm always looking for. It looks good tucked in and not tucked; belted and not belted.
My fabric is a cotton voile?? It's a lightweight cotton with a loose weave and a slightly crinkly texture. I fell in love with the pattern/colour and it was on sale.
I will be sewing this again, and I recommend this to others. I'm looking forward to sewing up the short sleeve version.
It's an A++. Very rarely, if ever, have I ever wanted to sew a pattern up more than once, but I have lots of ideas for this one.
Belted (I need a new belt):
Untucked, no belt: