I used a purple cotton chambray that must have had some spandex in it, a little contrasting topstitching/button holes, and purple buttons from my stash that I didn't even know I had. I had originally wanted to make a classic white shirt using this pattern, but for this challenge, I thought it would be easier to photograph a colour.
|I need a haircut in the worst way.|
|Green: Additions; Red: Subtractions|
1. Raise armhole by 5/8" (front, back and sleeve)
2. One the side seam of the FRONT, I cut a size 8 at the arm hole and blended to a size 12 at the waist, so it would match my TNT.
3. I noticed that the neck dart from my TNT pattern had been rotated into the arm hole on V8747. There seemed to be excess fabric there, so I shaved off the width of the dart at the shoulder seam (5/8" at the shoulder seam blending to nothing at the neck.
4. I added 1 3/8" in length matching my TNT pattern in length and hem shape.
5. The sleeves for my TNT and V8747 were almost the same, but since I was familiar with my TNT sleeve and it's fit, I used the top of that (matching at the bicep line) and merged it with the bottom of the Vogue (size 8 on the front of the sleeve and a 10 on the back of the sleeve – to match with what I did in point #2). This lowered the sleeve cap 1/4". I referenced a very timely blog post by ikat bag about sleeves here.
6. cut a size 10 cuff.
Muslin #2 looked a lot better—a closer fitting arm hole and better arm mobility, but I kept pulling the shirt down when assessing the fit in the mirror. At first I thought that I might have to raise the waist, but then tried taking a tuck across the upper chest. Suddenly, the bust gathers and the waist fell in a much better spot.
The sleeves were showing vertical twisting wrinkles towards my wrist. After some online investigation (on PR) I figured that I would have to add back in that 1/4" at the sleeve cap. Here are my final alterations:
1. Took 1/4" tuck across the front and back at the upper chest level.
2. Added 1/4" back on to the sleeve cap.
3. Added 1/4" broad upper back adjustment.
4. Raised the bust gathers 1/4" (I just moved the notches up).
5. Added plackets to the sleeves (see green penis-shapes on my diagram) and had to add another pleat to make the cuff size work.
Things to change for next time:1. Shorten the sleeve a little, though I think I need the length to cover arm extension.
2. narrow the sleeve a little, especially near the bottom at the cuff, and use a size smaller cuff.
|Sleeves come to wrists when arms out straight, though I could |
probably get away with 3/4" less of sleeve length.
See what I mean about needing the room for forward arm movement?
That's pretty much it. I love how the back fits and I think after tweaking the sleeve a little I might have another TNT.