Monday, January 26, 2015

Deer & Doe Plantain

I'm in search of tride and true (tnt) patterns for all the basic pieces in my closet.
I've got a button-down that's pretty close, some magical shorts that I've copied that fit no matter how much I weigh that I'm translating into jeans, and now i'm close to having a t-shirt tnt of my very own.

Plantain is a free pattern from Deer & Doe (as I'm sure you well know unless you are new to the sewing blogosphere). It's has a different shape than what you might be used to (ie: it can look a little maternity), and I wasn't sure about it myself, but it sure is easy to wear! Besides, taking in side seams is an easy alteration that can change the shape to whatever floats your boat. Plus it has cute little elbow patches that I have yet to try.

I made some small changes to affect the fit for myself, and after looking at my pictures I'm going to need to make some more changes.

On my muslin (not shown), I cut a 38 and graded to a 40 at the hip according to my measurements. In this version, I used a 38 throughout and like the amount of ease much better.

My changes:
1. forward shoulder 1/2". Finally a t-shirt that isn't sliding back all the time!
2. raised neckline to the smallest size – perfect. Changed the length of the binding to correspond with this change.
3. I can't remember if I made a broad back adjustment (all sewing packed away), but I'll check when I'm able. I suspect that I did.
4. took out the sleeve at the bicep and elbow. It was a little tight and uncomfortable in this jersey.

From drag lines the pics, it looks like I also need to:

1. sloping shoulder adjustment and lower the arm hole accordingly
2. swayback adjustment. I usually don't bother but it looks like shit and I should really figure that shit out. Any suggestions on how to do this?

This pattern fit my shoulder to bust area much better than the Sewaholic Renfrew that everyone has had so much success with. I think the Sewaholic block is not right for me, though the Minoru jacket is still a favorite. I've tried a couple of other no-name t-shirt patterns, but so far this one is the best for me.

Pattern review is here.


  1. I think it looks good-especially the neckline. It lays just right!

  2. Late comment, sorry! I think it looks pretty great for what it is, which is a casual T-shirt! :) I have been meaning to try this one for ages.

    I don't usually bother with swayback adjustments in knit tees---I think the only way to do it effectively is to add a centre-back seam, which I don't love the look of usually (depends on the style.) All the no-seam ones I've seen basically amount to squaring the shoulders so there's less fabric length at CB to form the wrinkles---which would basically be the exact opposite of the slope-shoulder adjustment you were talking about doing. >_<. (It does help a bit for me, but I have very square shoulders anyway.) Adding some width to the bottom back might help (give the folds room to fall out) but you said your muslin had a wider base and you didn't like that, so this may not help, either. That being said, let me know if you do figure it out! :)

  3. I just finished my first Plantain and am deciding I apparently need to start trying a forward shoulder adjustment thanks to aging. My back sleeve area does not look like yours, I thought it was the pattern, I'm having to realize it must be me, as everything fitted has the same tightness!

    As this is a new adjustment for me, and as I find the various ways out there not seeming to apply to me or are confusing, could you explain how you did yours? Or what site you learned from? Thanks so much for your help, I want mine to look like yours.