Have you ever had one of those projects that cause you to exclaim "Man! This is going to be so f#@$'n cool" every time you work on it? I finally found the fabrics for my Minoru and I couldn't be happier with them. The outer shell is a charcoal stretch cotton twill and the lining is a blue and yellow cross weave taffeta-like fabric I found in the home-dec department of Fabricland. I tried to restrain myself when picking out a lining so that I wouldn't be disappointed when it was finished and this choice has just enough kick. It's like lining for the commitment-phobe—sometimes it's yellow, sometimes it's blue, but mostly they blend into a greeny-grey. Perfect.
This is my Minoru muslin:
Ugly isn't it? I am trying to use up all of my remnants of fabric in appropriate muslins. I've got about 5 different fabrics going on here (almost the same weights) including some delightfully ugly green brocade originally bought for a halloween costume. Do you use actual muslin to test fit, or do you use fabric you have in your stash that you'd never use otherwise?
The fit, however, is better than I could hope for. I was cautious with this. I've never successfully done broad upper back adjustment to a raglan-sleeve pattern before. I was hoping that there would be enough ease without it, but was forced to finally figure it out. You would do this alteration if, when you lift your arms out in front of you (like Frankenstein), the fabric catches/bunches in front of your shoulders and pulls across the back of your shoulders by your armpits (your lats).
Here's what I did:
1. Draw a line parallel to the centre back about 2 inches away. Draw two perpendicular lines from that line about 1.5" from the top of the pattern and another about 1.5" under the armpit.
2. Cut along the lines you just made and slide them out the desired amount. I usually need to add up to an inch. I added another 1/4" to the lining because my fabric had absolutely no give.
3. Blend from the top of the pattern piece into your newly placed pattern piece and back out again from the armpit to the waist.
Now... on to the giveaway! (It's my very first one!)
I asked for this pattern last Christmas, and since men can't seem to communicate effectively between each other, my husband and my dad both got me the same thing. So, I have two Minoru patterns and I really only need one and would be happy to give it to one of you. It really is a great pattern—super simple but SO good-looking.
Here's the deal: Show me your ugliest muslin... I mean, really go for it. The idea here is to use up all of those left over pieces and ugly fabrics in your stash. The muslin can be for any pattern.
Make a comment below containing a link to your picture, be it on your blog or flicker or wherever else you post your pics on the web and some way of contacting you (email or link to your blog). I will choose the top three and you can vote. The winner gets my extra Sewaholic Minoru pattern and possibly a little something extra!
Contest closes October 10. Can't wait to see what hideous mockups you all come up with!
That looks very similar to the alteration I did on that Simplicity blouse I'd posted on SG....but I like this version better because it doesn't raise up the armscye (assuming that's a problem with the method I used).
ReplyDeleteNo ugly muslins here, mostly because I seldom make them, and when I do I use actual muslin or fashion fabrics that I've fallen out of love with (or that are polyester, now that I know that poly and I don't mesh well.)
I usually do pivot method the the slapdash sewist uses, but this worked better for me this time.
DeleteI have a similar broad back fitting issue. The pivot method does not work for me - it leads to a horizontal wrinkle below the armhole. I've had the most luck with Nancy Zieman's method (pivot-and-slide), which I suppose is something similar to what you did with the raglan here.
DeleteKathleen
Come on, your muslin could almost be wearable. That is not so very ugly as muslins go! It is going to be a great jacket.
ReplyDeleteI can only say that the colours in your muslin would work for someone. Seriously.
ReplyDeleteWhen I made my Minoru, the change was in the sleeve length at the top because there was a twist at the top of the sleeve.
I'll keep your broad back fitting for future reference. Thanks.